The Rolex Submariner 16800 vs 168000: A Tale of Transition and Innovation

At first glance, the Rolex Submariner 16800 and 168000 seem nearly identical, their reference numbers differing by just a single digit. Yet beneath the surface lies a fascinating story of evolution — one that reflects Rolex’s constant drive for refinement. Here’s a look at the history of these two Submariner references and what sets them apart.

Rolex Submariner ref. 16800

Image Source: Bob's Watches

Introduced in 1979, the Rolex Submariner 16800 marked a major turning point in the Submariner’s legacy. Replacing the 1680, it was the first Submariner to feature a sapphire crystal, offering enhanced durability, alongside an increased water resistance rating of 300 metres. Powered by the new Calibre 3035 movement, it provided a rapid-set date function — a notable technical improvement at the time.

Early examples of the 16800 had a matte dial with tritium lume painted directly onto the surface, which has aged over time to a creamy yellow, prized by vintage enthusiasts. In the late 1980s, Rolex transitioned to a glossy dial with white gold surrounds for the hour markers, giving the watch a more modern, dimensional appearance. Collectors often refer to the 16800 as a transitional model, bridging the gap between the vintage aesthetics of the past and the contemporary style we recognise today.

Rolex Submariner ref. 168000

Image Source: Le Specialiste Vintage 

Launched in 1988, the Rolex Submariner 168000 — nicknamed the “Triple Zero” — had an exceptionally short production run of around 18 months, making it one of the rarest Submariner references. At first glance, it closely resembles the later 16800, featuring the same Calibre 3035 movement, sapphire crystal, and glossy dial with gold-edged hour markers.

The defining upgrade was in the material: the switch from 316L stainless steel to 904L stainless steel. While 316L was the standard in luxury watchmaking, 904L offered superior corrosion resistance, especially in salty marine environments, and allowed for a finer, high-polish finish. Under direct light, 904L steel reveals a more lustrous, reflective quality compared to the slightly matte look of 316L. This material change marked a pivotal innovation, setting the stage for Rolex’s future use of 904L across its range.

 Curved End Rubber Strap for Rolex Submariner Deployment

Final Thoughts

Though the Submariner 16800 and 168000 share many technical and visual similarities, they symbolise two distinct moments in Rolex’s journey. The 16800 represents a transitional era — blending vintage charm with modern advancements — while the rare 168000 stands as a brief yet significant milestone, introducing the superior steel that would become a hallmark of Rolex craftsmanship. Whether you’re captivated by the nostalgia of the 16800 or the material innovation of the “Triple Zero,” both models embody why the Submariner remains one of the most revered dive watches in the world.